A Larissa Muslin

Checking out the local fabric discount place the other day I found a beautiful piece of knit fleece - knit fabric on the outside and fleecy inside in a absolutely beautiful blue colour.

I knew that I wanted to make a nice sweatshirt out of it - but I didn't want it to be a plain  zip up fleece.  I thought about modifying the Jasper sweater pattern that I've made a few times lately but decided that I wanted this one to have a front opening.

So I started searching for patterns that work with sweater fleece but that are a bit more exciting.  What I found was Burda Style's Larissa.  I love all the little details in this jacket - the tabs, the zippers, the sleeve details -and I figured that it'd make a plain sweater look a little more exciting.

However I knew I was going to have to do a muslin .  I went through and compared all my measurements with Burda's sizing chart and I range from a size 32 (anything measured up and down the body) to a size 50 (around the waist).  Based on my bust measurements I needed a size 44 but the Larissa only comes in size 34-42, so I decided to start by cutting the pattern to a straight size 42 just to see how it fitted.

I didn't want to cut straight into my good fabric -  so I grabbed a piece of brown corduroy with embroidery and sequins all over it that I picked up off the bargain table but had no idea what I was going to do with it.  I figured if it worked great it'd be a wearable muslin - and if it didn't well it was no big loss.

I skipped all the little details for this version and just made the basic pattern.

The only change I made to the pattern before I started was to lengthen it by 1.5" I knew that it was going to be too short as is.  Even though I'm a good 6" shorter than what Burda designs for everything I've seen or read about this pattern says its very very short.  So I pulled out my bomber jacket which is about the length I wanted and decided I needed at least 1.5" extra.  I lengthened only at the lower lengthen shorten line below the bust as I knew i didn't need extra length up top.

I cut out the main pieces and basted it all together.  It was a little tight around the waist line - so I let out the 4 side seams by about 1/4 " each giving me a extra inch which was just about right.

The top half was not quite so easy to fix.  It fitted fine across the bust line, but was huge across my upper chest and shoulders.

I took it apart and re-cut the sleeve and neckline to a size 36.  I cut the front shoulders off at the 36 line as well, but left the extra length on the back piece as otherwise the shoulder point was not in the right place.  I then just graded out to the size 44 under the arms.

I sewed it all back together and still had a few issues with the sleeve fitting - I took them out and twisted them around slightly and the fit is a bit better but overall I'm not totally happy the the shape of the front of the armhole.  I wonder if cutting it all out at a 36 and then doing a FBA would position the armhole better.   I may try it and see.

At this stage I was quite liking how it looked so I went back to my stash and found some green poly to use as a lining and a light blue separating zipper and finished the jacket off.

I ended up removing the collar before finishing it as there was just something not quite right with the collar - probably because I hadn't cut it down so it didn't fit properly in the new sized top.

I had to do a quick patch job on the bottom band to account for the extra inch of length I'd made when I let out the side seams.

So overall I'm not sure how I feel about this jacket.  Its a great weight/warmth and I love the fabric - (especially the way I look like a disco ball if I stand in the sun) but I'm not terribly thrilled with the fit. I'm sure it'll get a bit of wear if Spring ever arrives.

 I'm not sure if I'll use this pattern for my good fabric or not now.  But maybe I can use the design ideas with my basic sweatshirt pattern - Ohh that's an idea.  I might have to think about that a little more!