And we are onto round 3 of the Sewing Bee for 2021.
This time around the challenge was print matching specifically...
1. Construct a garment or garments, for an adult person, using fabric that has some type of pattern in or on it. The design on the fabric can be part of the fabric weave or can be printed on the surface of the fabric. This includes plaids, florals, or other designs. You can also create your own patterned fabric by printing, appliqueing etc. by modifying flat yardage.
Across at least one meeting point, the fabric design should match so that it looks 'seamless'. This match point may be a construction seam, but it may also be something else such as a surface pocket. The matching can be done across as many joins as desired.
I will admit that my original thought was that this would be a fairly easy challenge - boy was I wrong.
There were so many directions that I could take this....First thing to do was to see what fabrics I had available. I found about 4 or 5 that would work. A red, orange, white and navy plaid in a crinkle gauze cotton, a red flannel plaid, a cotton jersey knit plaid in black and red, a rayon with a geometric print in turquoise black and white, a rayon with a random leaf print, a geometric print cotton fabric in shades of orange and brown or a duck cotton with a world map print. I sat down and started sketching design designs that would work for each fabric
Then since the competition started on a Friday I got my Friday morning knitting group to weigh in with their opinions. I want to thank all those wonderful ladies for their time and input - it really does help to talk these things out.
Finally the decision was made that I should go for the red, orange, white and Navy plaid crinkle gauze cotton in a summer dress with a geometric design at the front bodice.
I figured this fabric was a good choice not only cause it's pretty, but because it's an uneven plaid - not symmetrical - it would be nice and hard to match - showing skill if I could get it to work, plus the crinkly gauze fabric is a tricky fabric to work with so again good for showcasing skills. The main problem that I could see was the limited yardage. I had bought a full 3 yards of this fabric which would normally be more than enough for a dress, but print matching takes a lot of extra yardage, plus I had already used a bit of the fabric to make a shirt last summer. I never liked the final shirt though, so the first thing I did was dig it out and unpick the entire thing to give myself a bit more fabric to play with.
As per usual the first thing to do was to figure out a pattern. I started with my moulage, cut it off at waist height and rotated the front arm dart to a dart at the bust line. I then rotated as much as I could of the under bust dart to the bust line as well. That left the remainder of the under bust dart that nips the pattern in under the bust still in the pattern but there wasn't much I could do about that. I then split the pattern entirely along the bust line plus removed the fold at the centerline so the bodice is now in four pieces.
If I cut my fabric on the bias and align all the plaids that should now make a diamond at the center of the chest. The problem was exactly where on the fabric to center the pattern.
I took a deep breath and started cutting I was able to get the top two pieces out of the front of the shirt and the two bottom pieces out of the back, sewed/pinned them together and tried it on......and it didn't work. The diamond (it is there if you look closely enough) was over taken by the dark blue stripes radiating outwards.
I tried again but that wasn't working either
|Fabric Pressed, seam lines marked.|