I've been watching lots of reruns of the Great British Sewing Bee lately - currently up to Season 5 episode 3. I got inspired the other day by Lingerie week to make myself a new bra. I was thinking that it'd be nice to use up some of my lace to make a slightly nicer bra but as I was rummaging through my stash looking for my lace I found the offcut of some jersey silk that I used 2.5 years ago to make my Mum a top as a birthday present. There wasn't much of the fabric left over, certainly not enough for another top, but I figured there'd be enough for a nice bra and undies set.
For the Bra - I used my standard bra pattern but modified the back piece once again - I'm still trying to find that perfect amount of coverage that is covered enough, but still easy to get on. I think we are getting closer!
Cutting out: I cut out two lots of each pattern piece - one with the maximum stretch running up and down and one with the stretch running across. I feel like this gives a good combination of support and comfort.
Four straps were cut from black cotton sateen and interfaced with medium weight interfacing before being stitch together and turned inside right.
Construction: The cups were sewn with a straight stitch, then top stitched and the seams trimmed, the cups were inserted into the bridge in the same way. I then stitched the two back layers together using the lightning stitch and then turned inside right. The two front layers were stitched together in the same way and clear elastic was added to the neckline seam with a three step zig zag, stretching the elastic as I go. The straps were inserted into the front section between the two layers and stitched in place and then it was turned inside right. The front and back were joined together at the side seams then the straps inserted into the back piece and top stitched in place. All the seams were then top stitched with a three step zig zag so that they sit beautifully flat.
The final step was to add the bottom elastic. I made one modification to the bridge piece when I cut everything out and that was to curve the bridge up between the breasts so I now started my elastic at that center front at an angle, basted it in place and brought it right around the bra and back to the center where I joined the two ends of the elastic at an angle.
Once I was happy with it I took the elastic back off, sewed up that center seam and then reapplied the elastic with a zig zag stitch, turned and top stitch with zig zag as well. My plan was to then cut the elastic at the back and tighten it to the desired length but at the moment its just being worn as is - it's a bit loose at the back but it still seems to be pretty supportive so I may leave it as is.
Overall the bra turned out pretty good. I like the modifications I made, but the cups may be just a smidge to small - hopefully that will be rectified now that Christmas is over and I can go back to eating normally!
I then made a pair of undies to go with my new bra. Problem is that I only had scraps left and when I was checking for maximum stretch I made a mistake and cut the pants so that the stretch was up and down and not around. They fit, though they are quite snug - they actually hold the tummy in quite nicely, but the problem is around the crotch where it's a bit skimpy. They tend to ride up the bum a bit. They are wearable, but probably only on occasions when I want a really nice lingerie set.
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