I wanted to do something slightly different this time around though. I wanted to try a pair of shorts with the sailor front - you know where you have the two buttoned flaps on either side. I wasn't sure how a pair of shorts like that would work with my body - probably with a lot of gaping, but I figured I wanted to try as least.
I started by cutting my fabric using the new pattern that I created. To start with with I just cut the two front and two back pieces as I wanted to play with fit a bit before I went onto design. I basted them together. One of my fit issues with this pattern was the front crotch area - to eliminate the extra fabric there I modified the front crotch curve, making more of an L, bringing the fabric together more further down the seam and then going straight across the crotch point. This worked nicely and I'm happy with this now. The next issue was the leg width. I wanted to bring that in a bit so I tapered the outside seam in from the hip line down, plus also took in the inner seam making that more curved.
Once I was happy with those changes I got to work on the front opening. I wanted to keep the pockets of course so I would need to open the short into the pocket. I started by choosing an angle for the pocket/front opening then cut a back and front pocket pieces out of my fabric. The only thing I did differently when sewing the shorts together was to not sew the front and back pocket pieces together for about 4 inches from the top.
To finish those edges I just turned the fabric under twice and top stitched. All other seams were finished on the overlocker.
Next I had to add the waistband. I knew I wanted a nice big waistband on these shorts and cut strips of fabric 6"wide. I started with the front section cutting a strip of my waistband just slightly longer than my front section, basted it to shorts and pressed it into shape I then extended the angle of the front pocket up onto the waistband and finished off the ends of the waistband. Added some iron on interfacing and finished it off.
Next the back waistband. I cut the back waistband in three sections with a back seam and a seam at each side seam. After basting one edge to the shorts I then tried them on to determine the amount I needed to take out at the top of each seam to get a nicely fitted waistband. Once I had determined that I sewed the waistband together - instead of using any interfacing in the waistband I instead took some 1.5"wide elastic and tacked it inside the waistband at each end. I cut the elastic about 1" shorter than the actual length of the waistband so it provides just a little bit of extra grip to the waist. I find that since my waist and hip measurements are about the same and the weight just moves around, even using a contoured waistband I struggle to keep pants up, so anytime I can add elastic to the waist I do it.
I still am not sure why but when I put the waistband on it changed my perfectly fitting pants at the back to have that little pucker. I think I need to bring my back seam in a little at the top (or deepen my darts a little) to try and get rid of that.
I pinned the waistband together and tried it on and it was just as I had feared. Those pockets gape!
OK so the fasteners will need to be used to stop that.
I knew I wanted snaps - I have a real dislike for actual buttons - such a pain to do up and undo. I placed a snap every 1.5" from the top of the waistband down the edge of the pocket. There is still a little gaping between snaps but its not too bad. However that does mean that using the front pockets becomes a lot more difficult. Unfortunately as the back side of the snap is through just a single layer of fabric I'm a bit wary about snapping those open and closed a lot, they feel a bit flimsy.
So assuming that I would probably rarely use these pockets I decided to add back patch pockets as well - nice easily accessible pockets. I just made these up as I went along no detailing included and just top stitched on with one line of stitching.
So the final thoughts whilst I like these I doubt I'll make this pattern again just due to the gaping. I will however add the fit changes I made to these to my basic pants pattern.
Otherwise they are comfy and something slightly different from the norm so I really like them.
great make, and I find linen fits better each time the are worn - the detling is superb
ReplyDeleteThese are really cute! I’m a fan of the sailor pant look anyway, but even with the issues you mentioned, I really like them.
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