Thursday, November 7, 2019

Sirrocco Jumpsuit into dress modification

I have a beautiful piece of fabric sitting in my stash at the moment that I really want to make into a beautiful dress, my problem is figuring out what pattern to use. I have a vision in my head of this fabric made up into a long sleeve maxi dress with long sleeves but I'm just not sure how it's going to work so I thought I'd start with a muslin.

First up was figuring out the top pattern.  I quite like the wrap top of the Sirrocco Jumpsuit.  I made some modifications to the pattern last time I made it, but when I pulled out my pattern pieces this time they were not the ones I remembered - I think I may have thrown out the latest version of the pattern and kept one of the old ones.  So I decided to start again with the pattern.  I cut out the pattern at a size 40 based on my upper bust measurement, then had to do a very large full bust adjustment.  3.5" on each side (for a total of 7" added for my full bust measurement).

In doing this adjustment I ended up with one really huge bust dart and another big dart in the side seam that I just could not get to sit nicely when I tried to sew them up, so instead I decided to move the side dart up into the armhole and make it into a princess seam, instead.



The next step was to make the sleeve into a long sleeve - this was as simple as taking the short sleeve and extending the length down and tapering it in to get the wrist diameter I wanted.



Finally, I had taken about 2" out of the length of the top as I changed the darts into a princess seam, so I widened the waist band to 5" to make up for the length I took off the top pieces.

I used a piece of fleecy purple fabric in my stash to work on this muslin and realised that I could then use this to replace the purple top on my long sleeve sirocco jumpsuit.  I've never been happy with the top on that jumpsuit so this was a great way to modify it.  I decided to cut the final waistband down and keep the existing purple waistband as well as I quite liked the way it broke it up.





So I now had a top pattern I liked - onto muslin 2.  I still didn't know how the skirt portion would work to make it into a maxi skirt so I decided to do a second muslin.  This time I used a beautiful red sweater knit fabric that I bought recently. 

The top worked nicely with my pattern modifications



Then I had to figure out the skirt.  I tried a number of different options.  First a gathered skirt - Not a good look.  Then I tried some box pleats - these were better but I still didn't like the final look, so for the next option I decided to try a half circle skirt.  Unfortunately due to the width of the fabric I could only make it knee length, but I definitely liked that look a lot more and ended up finishing the dress with this skirt.  Not quite the maxi dress I originally envisioned but I do like it  - and so does my daughter - she keeps stealing it off me.  I'd be more than happy to hand it over to her - but the top half does not fit her yet (thankfully)





As you may be able to see in the pictures I never actually finished the bottom of this dress.  I left it to hang so that I could straighten out the hem once it dropped, but I've never gotten around to finishing it.  Oh well - I just keep wearing it anyway.  Maybe one day I'll go back and straighten out the hem....maybe....


And that still leaves me with the question of what to do with my good fabric. Do I make another short dress? I do love the way this dress looks but I'm often stopped from wearing it cause of having to wear leggings with it in the cold....I hate leggings! 

So do I try for a paneled long skirt with the wrap top, or something totally different like the kielo wrap dress?

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