Unfortunately, when I pulled out the yarn and started swatching it I found that the moths had gotten to it and it was all in pieces. I still wanted to use the yarn though and decided that I would just make a basic raglan sweater. Something that was comfy and warm but nothing special that wouldn't matter if I had a bunch of joins on the inside. I only had two balls (200g/400 m each) so it was right on the cusp of having enough for a sweater so I decided to just go for it.
I've included a basic version of my pattern at the end for future reference.
I made a few tweaks as I went along - Oh I've done the number of rows specified but it doesn't look quite long enough I'll add another of couple - that sort of thing.
It's all knit in stockinette - which was boring but easy.
I did run out of yarn when I finished the second sleeve and still had the neckband to go. However I have a couple of other left over bits of Bendigo Woolen Millis yarns in a slightly lighter 5ply so I used two strands of that together and changed yarns once or twice and worked up the neckband in that. I had to go down in needle size a bit to get it to match but I'm happy with how it worked out. I had planned on making a shawl type collar but for it just didn't work so I went back to just a basic ribbed collar instead - It's still pulling at bit at the center but oh well!
When It was all done I decided the length was a bit short so used the same technique as for the neckband to add an extra waistband as well.
I really love this jumper. It doesn't look great on the inside and the yarn is pilling a bit, but its so easy to wear and warm and comfortable and best of all bright! its already on high rotation in my wardrobe.
Pattern:
Yarn - Bendigo Woolen Millis Blooms My tag says the colour is Jewel but that's not showing up as an option any more. It looks like Royal to me.
Needles - 6.5 mm circular needle
Gauge
1" = 3.875 st
1" = 5 rows
Front
Cast on 83 stitches
Work 10 rows k4 p1 (I went back and added a further 10 rows at the end for a total of 20 rows)
switch to stockinette
Work 28 rows decreasing both sides on rows 8, 18 and 28
work 20 rows increasing both sides on rows 3 and 7
Cast off 3 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
work 12 rows decreasing at outer edges on rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12
Next row - K25 cast off 13, K25
work 35 rows decreasing at outer (sleeve edge) every 2 rows and at neck edge at row 3 and then every 6th row.
1 stitch remaining at end. pull end through to finish.
Back
Cast on 83 stitches
Work 10 rows k4 p1 (I went back and added a further 10 rows at the end for a total of 20 rows)
switch to stockinette
Work 28 rows decreasing both sides on rows 8, 18 and 28
work 20 rows increasing on both sides on rows 3 and 7
Cast off 3 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
work 13 rows decreasing at outer edges on rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12
work 30 rows decreasing at both sides every second row
work 5 rows decreasing at both sides every row,
Cast off 23 stitches
Sleeves
Cast on 44 stitches
work 9 rows K4 P1
switch to stockinette
work 78 rows increasing both sides at every 8th row. (8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 54, 62, 70) 62 stitches
Cast off 3 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows. 56 stitches
work 2 rows
work 43 rows decreasing both sides this row and every second row until 12 stitches remain
cast off.
Neckband - using 2 strands of 5 ply yarn and 4mm needles
pick up 27 stitches along front left side of neckband, 12 from sleeve, 23 from back, 12 from sleeve and 28 along front right neck.
K1P1 for 11 rows
Cast off loosely
sew to lower edge of front neckline.
Notes for next time: Add some short rows at bust for extra length - jumper rides up at front.
That looks so cozy and bright! A winning combination! I’m also (and always will be) amazed that you can create patterns like you do.
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