Wednesday, May 13, 2020

A mash up jumpsuit

I feel like - at this moment in my life - I just don't want to make any clothes just for the sake of making something.  There's no big gaps in my wardrobe that I need to fill and I don't want to make anything just for the sake of making it, so instead I've been looking for other things I can sew.

I've started trying to make up a few quilt blocks using all my scraps of fabric.  Hopefully one day I'll have enough to make a quilt.

But I also found whilst I was rummaging around my fabric stash a half made jumpsuit.

During last years Pattern Review Sewing Bee, the third round required us to use the Pattern Review Lillian Pattern to make a garment.  I struggled a bit trying to decide what to make and ended up starting three different projects before settling on the one I went with.  One of these projects was jumpsuit with the pants of the Closet Case Sallie Jumpsuit and the Lillian top.



 I never loved the top half - which is why it was abandoned, but looking at it I decided I'd really like to finish the project off.  I regularly reach for my cotton knit Sallie jumpsuit so having a second one in my wardrobe would be nice.

The pants from the jumpsuit were great as is, so I just unpicked the top.

Unfortunately I couldn't find the remainder of this fabric (I've since realised that it got used to make a cape for my son to be Thor for Halloween) so I had to work around that problem.  I decided that the best idea would be to find a contrasting fabric to use.  Unfortunately the only thing I could come up with was a plain black knit.

I used some of the black to make a 4" wide waistband to separate the top and pants.  I then used the original back piece to make a new front piece, the original front pieces were recut and used on the back and new sleeves were added out of the black fabric. Finally a black neckband was added and black pockets added to the pants. 



To create the new front piece I took the back from the original top and recut the arm hole based on my front sloper pattern and straightened the side seams based on the Sallie jumpsuit pattern.   I then cut the neckline to be a fairly deep V  - less deep than the Sallie, but deeper than I would normally - I need enough room to get the jumpsuit on and off.

To create the back I took the inset piece out of the original front and extended the vertical lines down to the waistband.  I then used my black fabric to create an insert in the middle of the new back piece.  Again I used my sloper to create a new back armholes and reshaped the side seams.  I made a shallow V in the neckline in the back making sure it was not so deep that my bra would show through, but that it's deep enough to get the jumpsuit on and off.

The sleeves were the pattern from the Sirocco jumpsuit but modified quite a bit to fit into the new armhole.  I really need to make a good sloper for sleeves that I can use when needed.

The neckband is two straight piece of black folded over and joined in a V at center front and center back.  I have a few issues with the neckband warping but I couldn't pull it any tighter or I wasn't able to get into and out of this.

Before I attached the pants to the top I added the pockets (which I had originally left off of my muslin), but again I had to use the black fabric rather than the red,but I quite like the look.

The bottom of the pants has been turned up 3"twice to make a really heavy hem. It gives the pants a really nice drape.


I quite like the way this turned out - My husband calls it my star trek jumpsuit but I like it.







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